Margaret River to Dunsborough 2000

Margaret River to Dunsborough, day 6, Saturday 23 September 2000. I rode up to the Margaret River post office to send a postcard and left there at 9:00, 381. I rode over the bridge then turned left up Carter’s Road, then right into Caves Road. I took that route in 1978 on the rainy windy morning of a wonderful day which turned out to be the last day of that ride; when, the next day, I had a broken chain 3km outside Busselton and had to take a lift to Bunbury to catch the Australind train home.

The morning was cool and partly cloudy with a light southerly. I rested at 397, and right there on the side of the road, beside a log, was an orchid. I was delighted to find one. It had broad shiny petals like a blue enamel orchid but they were violet, darkening to maroon and almost black at the tips. I took a photograph of it. Not a great one with a small light disposable camera but better than nothing.

I rested again at 413. While I was having my drink and checking the map for the turn-off to Yallingup a van, heading south, stopped and the driver asked me for directions. He said he didn’t know where they were and that they wanted some petrol. I showed him on the map exactly where they were and suggested that petrol could be got at Yallingup, only 8km back, or failing that at Dunsborough, another 8km. I also said that Dunsborough would have a good newsagent who would carry a useful map. He thanked me, chucked a U-turn and headed north.

I reached the Yallingup turn-off at 421 and turned left to go down to the beach. As I reached the top of the steep descent the scene was awesome – the land rising steeply from the broad bay, the sea far below with huge waves breaking on the reefs and beaches. I plunged down and found the town much bigger than I remembered it – it was little more than a shop in 1978 and 1983. Lots of people walked about and a surprising number took advantage of the beach, though it was a cool day. Odometer reading 423 at the beach.

I found a patch of icy clear blue-green water protected by reefs and took my swim. This was delightful and I felt like staying there all day, but it is better to get out while you still feel you could stay a bit longer.

I dried and changed then toiled up the hill (after getting lost – more than one road going up now and I took the dead end) back to the turnoff, which I reached at 426. I rushed down the hill to Dunsborough, arriving at the bar of the hotel (434) just in time to see one of the great events of the Olympics – the race for gold between Kieren Perkins and Grant Hackett.

After that I claimed my unit. It was a smoker and was $13 cheaper than a non-smoker, $76 instead of $89. Surprising – I would expect it to be the other way around. The unit was no better than one you would pay $50 for in other places but it was pleasant enough and the fact is that Dunsborough and Margaret River are expensive places to stay. 20 years ago this wasn’t the case.

When I paid for my unit the girl said “Where have you ridden from today?” I replied “Margaret River and Yallingup.” She said “You ought to be in the Olympics!” Not according to what I was hearing on the radio. Those Olympic hoons do my whole ride’s distance in a few hours at an average speed of over 40 kph.

The unit faced a football oval that hadn’t been there 20 years ago. The whole ‘Inn’ complex had expanded even since 1997. I had my usual rest then set off for Meelup Beach. I started from the junction of Caves Road with the new main Naturaliste Road at 435, reached the Meelup Beach Road turnoff at 439, the beach itself at 441. It was as calm and clear and beautiful as always and there were a surprising number of people there, in the water or walking or sitting on the beach and grass, for a cool September afternoon. I enjoyed my swim, not worrying about being in the water too long because I only had to ride 6 more km today.

I toiled up the hill on the way back, pausing at the lookout, reached the Meelup Beach Road turnoff at 443 and Dunsborough at 447. I ordered a pizza from the Big Pig Pizza shop. It was more expensive than the 3 for $20 pizzas you get in Perth but the quality was better too.

I made bookings – for the Esplanade Hotel in Busselton, where I have always stayed since 1977, and the Ocean Drive Motel in Bunbury. The lady asked me what I wanted. “Oh, just the basic unit,” I said. “Just the basic unit?” she mocked. “My husband and I bought this place three years ago and it was a rat’ole! We’ve totally redone it!” She painted a glowing picture of what I would get for $60.

The usual lazy evening followed.

Reading at Dunsborough, end of day: 448. day’s ride: 68 km. Aggregate: 412. Km/day: 69.

DIGRESSION:

THE STRANGE SMALL MIRACLE OF THE TWENTY CENT COIN

This happened on the Saturday on which I went to Yallingup and Dunsborough. I was riding up Caves Road towards Yallingup when suddenly popped into my head, for no particular reason, the twenty cent coin that I used to have, minted in 1995. It was the only 20c coin in all the years since 1966 that had a special commemorative design on the reverse, rather than the platypus or whatever it is. The 50c coin is usually used for commemorative designs, but that year the 50c coin was taken up with Weary Dunlop, so they had to use the 20c coin to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the founding of the United Nations Organisation.

There weren’t many minted and those that appeared quickly went into collections, so I only ever scored one, in 1995. I put it into the brass cup on top of my record shelves where I keep all the commemorative 50c and dollar coins.

I had a burglary in March and naturally all the coins went, cleaned out, empty cup.

So it was the thought of this lost coin, another one of which I hadn’t seen for five years, that popped into my head as I rode along.

A couple of hours later, in Dunsborough, I went to the bakery to buy some lunch, got some small coins in my change and whoa, there it was, a 1995 20c coin, United Nations design on the reverse.

I was pleased and, when I got back to my unit, I put the coin into my toiletries bag to keep it separate from the loose change so it wouldn’t get spent on the ‘phone or something. I had checked that bag before leaving home and knew what was in it.

When I arrived home on Wednesday and began to unpack and put things away, I turned out the toiletries bag, and found not one, but two, 1995 20c coins with the United Nations pattern. There was no doubt about it. I have them in the brass cup and still look at them. I only got one in Dunsborough. It is not impossible that I might have got another but I only was aware of getting one and I only put one in the bag.

Miracles usually involve something important, life and death, not something as nugatory as a 20c coin. This miracle was perhaps a sign, a message. A pointer to substantial things in the future. Time will tell.

Charles A. Pierce

Other days on this Tour:

1. Perth to Cape Leeuwin Tour 2000
2. Perth to Bunbury 2000
3. Bunbury to Noggerup 2000
4. Noggerup to Boyup Brook 2000
5. Boyup Brook to Nannup 2000
6. Nannup to Augusta 2000
7. Augusta to Margaret River 2000
8. Margaret River to Dunsborough 2000 (This post)
9. Dunsborough to Busselton 2000
10. Busselton to Bunbury 2000
11. Bunbury to Mandurah 2000
12. Mandurah to Cottesloe 2000

Places Mentioned in this Post:

Related posts:

1. Dunsborough to Margaret River 1980
2. Dunsborough to Margaret River 1988
3. Dunsborough to Margaret River 1984
4. Augusta to Margaret River 2000
5. Dunsborough to Margaret River 1992

Tags: Dunsborough, Margaret River, Yallingup